Microdermabrasion: What It Does and Who It Suits

Microdermabrasion is one of the least glamorous treatments on any clinic menu and one of the most consistently useful. It does not promise a transformation. What it does is make skin smoother, brighter and better at absorbing everything you put on it afterwards — reliably, with no downtime.

What it actually is

Microdermabrasion is physical exfoliation. A device with a diamond-tipped head is passed across the skin, removing the outermost layer of dead cells, while gentle suction lifts away the debris at the same time.

That outer layer is what makes skin look dull. It is also what stops serums and actives penetrating properly. Removing it does two things at once: the skin immediately looks brighter, and everything applied afterwards works better.

At Skin Reform we use diamond-tip microdermabrasion rather than the older crystal method. The diamond head is more precise, more hygienic, and does not leave crystal residue on the skin or in the eyes.

If you came here looking for dermaplaning

They are close cousins, and one of them we offer

Dermaplaning uses a surgical blade to scrape away dead cells and fine vellus hair. Microdermabrasion uses a diamond tip and suction to do the exfoliation part. Both are physical exfoliation, both give immediate smoothness, both have no downtime.

The practical difference is the hair. Dermaplaning removes the fine peach fuzz; microdermabrasion largely does not.

We offer diamond microdermabrasion rather than dermaplaning. If smoother, brighter skin and better product absorption is what you are after, it will do that job well.

And while we are here: the old story that facial hair grows back thicker after dermaplaning is not true. Cutting hair at the surface does not change the follicle, and the follicle determines thickness. A freshly cut hair simply has a blunt tip for a while.

What it treats

• Dullness and uneven texture — its core strength
• Congestion, blackheads and enlarged-looking pores
• Mild superficial pigmentation and sun-related surface damage
• Fine lines, modestly, through the collagen response to repeated treatment
• Rough patches, flaking and the general build-up that happens in winter
• Skin that has stopped responding to good skincare — often a penetration problem rather than a product problem

Who it suits

• Almost all skin types, which is unusual in this category
• Anyone who wants an immediate visible improvement with no recovery
• Anyone who cannot have chemical or laser treatment, including many people during pregnancy — subject to clinical approval
• Anyone preparing skin for another treatment, since it allows better penetration
• People new to clinic treatments who want somewhere sensible to start

Who it does not suit

• Active, inflamed or cystic acne — suction and abrasion over inflamed lesions can worsen them
• Active rosacea or very reactive, broken-capillary skin
• Anyone with an active cold sore or open skin in the area
• Recent sunburn, or skin that has had laser or a peel in the last two weeks
• Anyone using strong retinoids or acids without a break beforehand, as advised

What it will not do

• It will not treat deep pigmentation, melasma or significant sun damage. It works at the surface
• It will not remove wrinkles or tighten loose skin
• It will not fix indented acne scarring. Texture improves, the scar does not
• It will not clear acne on its own
• And it will not last indefinitely. Surface cells regenerate on roughly a four-week cycle, which is why it works best as a maintained treatment rather than a one-off.

What to expect

During

• Around thirty minutes. The sensation is usually described as a cat's tongue — a mild scratchy drag with light suction
• No numbing needed. It is not painful

Afterwards

• Skin looks brighter immediately. Slight pinkness for an hour or two in some people
• Possible mild flaking for a day or two, particularly the first time
• Makeup can usually go on the same day
• Avoid retinoids, acids and scrubs for two to three days
• Sunscreen daily, without exception. Freshly exfoliated skin burns more easily, and that is how a good treatment turns into a pigmentation problem.

How often

As a general guide, a course of three to six treatments at four-week intervals gives the best result, with maintenance every four to six weeks afterwards, following the skin's own renewal cycle.

A note on home devices

Home microdermabrasion kits are widely sold and mostly disappointing. The suction and abrasion are deliberately weak for safety, which means limited results — and where they are not weak, uneven pressure in untrained hands causes micro-grazing and broken capillaries. The treatment is simple; applying it evenly to your own face is not.

Common questions

Is it the same as a facial?

A facial generally cleanses, extracts and hydrates. Microdermabrasion physically removes the outer layer. They are often combined in the same visit, and that combination usually gives a better result than either alone.

Will it hurt?

No. Most people find it mildly scratchy and perfectly tolerable.

Can I have it before an event?

Yes. Two to three days beforehand is ideal, so any slight pinkness has settled completely.

Can it be combined with other treatments?

Frequently, and it works well that way — removing the surface layer first allows anything applied afterwards to penetrate better.

Book a free consultation

Diamond microdermabrasion is available at all four Skin Reform clinics — Sandton, Greenstone, Centurion and Cape Town. Your consultation is free, and if something else would serve your skin better we will tell you.

This article is for general information and does not constitute medical advice. Individual results vary. Suitability for any treatment is determined at consultation.